Introduction of sweater production knitting process
There are many types of fabrics, which can be divided into woven fabrics and
knitted fabrics according to different manufacturing methods. Woven fabrics are
composed of two sets of vertical warp (arranged along the longitudinal direction
of the fabric parallel to the fabric edge) and weft (perpendicular to the fabric
edge) on the loom Yarns or threads are interwoven according to certain rules,
usually referred to as fabrics. Knitting is formed by loops of yarns that are
bent regularly. Each knitted fabric is divided into two categories: warp knitted
fabrics and weft knitted fabrics. In weft-knitted knitting, the stitches move in
the horizontal direction, while in warp-knitted knitting yarns are converted
into stitches in the vertical direction.
The vast majority of sweaters we see are weft-knitted knitting ...
Section 1 Knitting
The formation of knitted fabrics mainly uses the loop forming mechanism to bend the yarn into a loop, and the loops are interwoven to form a fabric, so the loop is the basic element of all knitted fabrics. The loop can be roughly divided into knitting loop, floating Loops, TUCK LOOP, HELD LOOP, etc., knitted fabrics are composed of a series of criss-cross stitches. Weft coils (COURSES). Due to the different formation directions of the coils, the coils have different shapes. (SEMI-CIRCULAR SHAPED).
1. Type of woven piece:
Woven piece is the use of loops to weave wool (such as wool, artificial wool, cotton yarn, etc.) into a piece of cloth, the fabric is mainly divided into the following three categories:
A: Knitted panel
Mobile phone woven pieces are woven by a hand-cranked machine. The use of adding and subtracting needles (retracting needles) during the weaving process results in a variety of different styles and different sizes.The mobile phone is generally 36 inches long and the extension machine has 42 inches. 44-inch two.
The mobile phone has 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16 needles. In terms of use, mobile phones are usually woven with plain and inter-colored woven pieces, which can be woven unilateral (Plain, jersey), Full cardigan, Half cardigan, Tuck stitch, Half milano, Full milano, Rib, Ottoman / Ripple, Racking stitch, etc. Basic structure.
The flower-patterning machine is also divided into a hair-hanging machine and a hand-cranked automatic flower-patterning machine (single board) .The flower-patterning machine is generally 36 inches long, and the extension machine is 42 inches and 44 inches.
The main purpose of the hanging machine is to weave the bottomless hair plucking (Intersia). This plucking flower is woven from one side. During the knitting process, the required yarn is hung according to different patterns, so it is called hanging hair. There are many colors that can be woven, and the size of the pattern is not limited, but the hanger has only a single board (one side board), so it can't weave double-sided or rib, nor can weave the original cuff and original foot. In terms of numbers, there are only 3-1 / 2, 5-1 / 2 and 7 stitches.
The hand-pulling machine can only be woven on one side.You need to use your mobile phone to weave the rib feet or cuffs first, and then put on the needle of the plucking machine. FLOAT JACQUARD, the limitation is also larger than hanging hair, you can only woven two different colors in a row (Horizontal), the pattern is also limited.
B: Motorized fabric (Knitted fabric)
The motor weaving piece is woven by electric loom. The motor is mainly divided into ordinary motor, action motor, computer machine, ordinary cylinder motor and cylinder flower machine.
Ordinary motors can only weave plain and inter-colored cloth pieces and some very simple flowers. The woven piece is a piece, and usually only 36 inches and 48 inches (referring to the length of the machine board), the number of stitches is 3-pin to 14-pin. In addition to pure color, intermediate color and simple flower models, the action motor can also weave more difficult flower models. For example, two-color three-level dial flowers (fine flowers) (Double jacquard), LINKS, CABLE, TUCKING, etc., the number of stitches is 3 to 14 stitches, and usually only 72 inches.
The computer can weave any pattern and weave, but most of the three-level dials and slings used for weaving multi-color or large patterns can have up to six colors in a row. The finished pieces of the woven piece are also one by one. The ordinary cylinder is woven into cloth (ROLL), because it is not possible to knit the foot itself, but can only weave pure color and inter-color pieces. The needle is from 7 to 36 needles.
The use of the cylinder flower machine is larger than that of the ordinary cylinder machine.It can weave the foot itself, and can also weave the double-sided dial flower, full of slings, playing flowers and Gubo, etc., but the pattern cannot be too large, the number of stitches is 7 To 28 stitches.
C. Mobile phone fabric
Hand knitting is to knit the wool into a shirt with hand needles and hooks. Any flower can be woven without stitching, because hand knitting can woven the entire shirt, including collar stickers, chest stickers and bags.
2. Weaving process:
Taking the mobile phone as an example, it has been mentioned above that the mobile phone has a difference of 3 to 16 pins. Why do 3-pin and 12-pin mean? "3-pin" means that there are 3 knitting needles within 1 inch on the board, and 12-pin There are 12 knitting needles for 1 inch on the machine board.In the process of weaving, one knitting needle from the face needle is a row of V-shaped needles (V-SHAPE), which is called a needle. , Because the wool yarn in the woven piece is sent to the sweater knitting machine's looping area with a certain tension, the knitted loop will naturally be retracted, so the number of stitches within 1 inch on the sweater will be more than the machine board The number of stitches on 1 inch, such as a sweater with 12 stitches. There may be 14 or 15 stitches in 1 inch, maybe more. It is not difficult to see that in general, the denser the knitting needles on the board, The thinner the piece of cloth weave, the thinner the needle path, and the finer the natural yarn should be; the other important parameter for evaluating sweaters is what we often say "word code TENSION", "word code" means wool The tightness of the knitting of the shirt, how the code is, has a great influence on the weight, feel of the sweater, and the shapeability and shrinkage after washing and ironing.The measurement method of the code is generally through the best effort (using the largest The force is pulled until it is no longer pulled to a certain number (ie horizontal pull, vertical Needle path) or a certain number of revolutions (that is, straight pull, along the direction of the needle path), depending on the length that can be reached, such as: horizontally pulling 10 12-pin single-sided cloth pieces is 1 inch 7 minutes and a half (ie 1-15 / 16 inches), the code size usually called the cloth piece is 1 inch 7 minutes and half; the drawing method of the pit strip (RIB) is different, generally it is pulled a few (a pit includes one side and one bottom), such as 2X2 pit 10 pit pull code, because different people pull different methods, there may be two results, one is 10 face needles and 10 bottom needles, and the other method is 10 face needles and 9 bottom needles. Pay special attention to it, and do n’t get it wrong. When weaving the pieces, the corresponding thickness of wool should be selected according to the different stitches, organization and code requirements.According to the general level of the code, the number of stitches used can be roughly according to the following standards do:
1 / 10--1 / 17 for 12-pin (metric), 1 / 7--1 / 9 for 9-pin,
1/6 ----- 1/8 for 7-pin, 1/3 ----- 1/5 for 5-pin,
3 pin use 1 / 1.5 ---- 1/3,
For example: use 20/2 100% COTTON to knit a 5-needle shirt, use 5 wool, [20/2 = 1/17, 5X (1/17) = 1 / 3.4], the above is only the approximate range under general circumstances, such as It is not impossible to use 2/30 100% VISCOSE 1 wool knitting 5 needles for perspective effect, but it is impossible to use 3 21/2 100% COTTON knitting 12 needles.
Two different wool materials (different colors or ingredients), there are several different weaving methods when they are delivered to the loom piece through the yarn feeder:
a: Inserted (Plated), that is, the two kinds of wool are fed into the loom through the inner and outer mouth of the yarn feeder, so that one wool is on the side of the fabric and the other wool is on the bottom of the fabric.
b. Mixed (Mixed), that is, the two wools are input into the loom without distinction like two identical wools, and the two wools in the knitted material are randomly distributed on both sides.
c. Twisted, twist two kinds of wool material through the twisting machine before weaving loom to make it into a piece of wool, and then enter the loom knitting piece.
For sweaters woven out of two or more different wool components, the final composition of the sweater (FINAL CONTENT) needs to be calculated.If the sweater is woven with different components in different parts (such as a sweater It is woven with 2/30 100% VISCOSE, and the lower column is woven with 21/2 100% COTTON), then the final composition of the sweater can only be known by weighing the weight of each component through the weaving factory. But if all The shirt is woven through one of the above three methods, and it can be calculated by the following method.Whether it is inlay, mixed or mixed wool, the calculation method is the same:
1. If 2/30 100% VISCOSE embedded WL2070LYCRA [83D (1/109) 85% NYLON 15% NYLON 15% ELASTANE], the calculation method is:
Turn the two wools into the same unit (to metric count):
VISCOSE: 2/30; LYCRA: 83D = 1/109.
2. Calculate the thickness of the two wools after embedding (or mixing or spelling) (that is, the two wools are combined into one with a considerable length):
2/30 + 1/109 = (2 * 109 + 30) / (30 * 109) = 248/3270
3. Calculate the percentage of VISCOSE and LYCRA:
The number of VISCOSE is: 2/30 = 218/3270, which is equivalent to 218 shares of 3270 wool.
The count of LYCRA is: 1/109 = 30/3270, which is equivalent to 30 shares of 3270 wool.
The total count of the two wools is: 248/3270, which is equivalent to 248 strands of 3270 wool
In the above metric counts, the denominator (count) is the same, it is not difficult to see that the more the number of shares, the thicker the wool, the following calculation can be used to get the gross ratio
Example vISCOSE: 218/248 = 0.879 = 88%
LYCRA: 30/248 = 0.121 = 12%
4. And LYCRA contains 85% NYLON 15% ELASTANE, so the following calculations must be done:
NYLON: 12% * 0.85 = 0.102 = 10%
ELASTANE: 12% * 0.15 = 0.018 = 2%
5. Therefore, the final composition is: 88% VISCOSE 10% NYLON 2% ELASTANE (percentages cannot take decimal points)
Section 2 CUTTING.
Cutting bed is to cut the woven piece into the required shape according to the paper pattern.
Most of the motor pieces need to be cut, because most of the cloth pieces woven by the motor are square or scrim.The main parts that need to be cut include the clamping position, collar, sleeve bottom, shirt feet and sleeve top, etc. Most of the sweater cutting beds are cut by hand, because the sweater is more elastic and the shape is not uniform after weaving.
Only the pure color fabric woven from the cylinder can be cut with electricity. When weaving pieces with mobile phones, they rarely need to be cut, except for some special styles.
Section 3 Sewing
The vast majority of sweaters we see are weft-knitted knitting ...
Section 1 Knitting
The formation of knitted fabrics mainly uses the loop forming mechanism to bend the yarn into a loop, and the loops are interwoven to form a fabric, so the loop is the basic element of all knitted fabrics. The loop can be roughly divided into knitting loop, floating Loops, TUCK LOOP, HELD LOOP, etc., knitted fabrics are composed of a series of criss-cross stitches. Weft coils (COURSES). Due to the different formation directions of the coils, the coils have different shapes. (SEMI-CIRCULAR SHAPED).
1. Type of woven piece:
Woven piece is the use of loops to weave wool (such as wool, artificial wool, cotton yarn, etc.) into a piece of cloth, the fabric is mainly divided into the following three categories:
A: Knitted panel
Mobile phone woven pieces are woven by a hand-cranked machine. The use of adding and subtracting needles (retracting needles) during the weaving process results in a variety of different styles and different sizes.The mobile phone is generally 36 inches long and the extension machine has 42 inches. 44-inch two.
The mobile phone has 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16 needles. In terms of use, mobile phones are usually woven with plain and inter-colored woven pieces, which can be woven unilateral (Plain, jersey), Full cardigan, Half cardigan, Tuck stitch, Half milano, Full milano, Rib, Ottoman / Ripple, Racking stitch, etc. Basic structure.
The flower-patterning machine is also divided into a hair-hanging machine and a hand-cranked automatic flower-patterning machine (single board) .The flower-patterning machine is generally 36 inches long, and the extension machine is 42 inches and 44 inches.
The main purpose of the hanging machine is to weave the bottomless hair plucking (Intersia). This plucking flower is woven from one side. During the knitting process, the required yarn is hung according to different patterns, so it is called hanging hair. There are many colors that can be woven, and the size of the pattern is not limited, but the hanger has only a single board (one side board), so it can't weave double-sided or rib, nor can weave the original cuff and original foot. In terms of numbers, there are only 3-1 / 2, 5-1 / 2 and 7 stitches.
The hand-pulling machine can only be woven on one side.You need to use your mobile phone to weave the rib feet or cuffs first, and then put on the needle of the plucking machine. FLOAT JACQUARD, the limitation is also larger than hanging hair, you can only woven two different colors in a row (Horizontal), the pattern is also limited.
B: Motorized fabric (Knitted fabric)
The motor weaving piece is woven by electric loom. The motor is mainly divided into ordinary motor, action motor, computer machine, ordinary cylinder motor and cylinder flower machine.
Ordinary motors can only weave plain and inter-colored cloth pieces and some very simple flowers. The woven piece is a piece, and usually only 36 inches and 48 inches (referring to the length of the machine board), the number of stitches is 3-pin to 14-pin. In addition to pure color, intermediate color and simple flower models, the action motor can also weave more difficult flower models. For example, two-color three-level dial flowers (fine flowers) (Double jacquard), LINKS, CABLE, TUCKING, etc., the number of stitches is 3 to 14 stitches, and usually only 72 inches.
The computer can weave any pattern and weave, but most of the three-level dials and slings used for weaving multi-color or large patterns can have up to six colors in a row. The finished pieces of the woven piece are also one by one. The ordinary cylinder is woven into cloth (ROLL), because it is not possible to knit the foot itself, but can only weave pure color and inter-color pieces. The needle is from 7 to 36 needles.
The use of the cylinder flower machine is larger than that of the ordinary cylinder machine.It can weave the foot itself, and can also weave the double-sided dial flower, full of slings, playing flowers and Gubo, etc., but the pattern cannot be too large, the number of stitches is 7 To 28 stitches.
C. Mobile phone fabric
Hand knitting is to knit the wool into a shirt with hand needles and hooks. Any flower can be woven without stitching, because hand knitting can woven the entire shirt, including collar stickers, chest stickers and bags.
2. Weaving process:
Taking the mobile phone as an example, it has been mentioned above that the mobile phone has a difference of 3 to 16 pins. Why do 3-pin and 12-pin mean? "3-pin" means that there are 3 knitting needles within 1 inch on the board, and 12-pin There are 12 knitting needles for 1 inch on the machine board.In the process of weaving, one knitting needle from the face needle is a row of V-shaped needles (V-SHAPE), which is called a needle. , Because the wool yarn in the woven piece is sent to the sweater knitting machine's looping area with a certain tension, the knitted loop will naturally be retracted, so the number of stitches within 1 inch on the sweater will be more than the machine board The number of stitches on 1 inch, such as a sweater with 12 stitches. There may be 14 or 15 stitches in 1 inch, maybe more. It is not difficult to see that in general, the denser the knitting needles on the board, The thinner the piece of cloth weave, the thinner the needle path, and the finer the natural yarn should be; the other important parameter for evaluating sweaters is what we often say "word code TENSION", "word code" means wool The tightness of the knitting of the shirt, how the code is, has a great influence on the weight, feel of the sweater, and the shapeability and shrinkage after washing and ironing.The measurement method of the code is generally through the best effort (using the largest The force is pulled until it is no longer pulled to a certain number (ie horizontal pull, vertical Needle path) or a certain number of revolutions (that is, straight pull, along the direction of the needle path), depending on the length that can be reached, such as: horizontally pulling 10 12-pin single-sided cloth pieces is 1 inch 7 minutes and a half (ie 1-15 / 16 inches), the code size usually called the cloth piece is 1 inch 7 minutes and half; the drawing method of the pit strip (RIB) is different, generally it is pulled a few (a pit includes one side and one bottom), such as 2X2 pit 10 pit pull code, because different people pull different methods, there may be two results, one is 10 face needles and 10 bottom needles, and the other method is 10 face needles and 9 bottom needles. Pay special attention to it, and do n’t get it wrong. When weaving the pieces, the corresponding thickness of wool should be selected according to the different stitches, organization and code requirements.According to the general level of the code, the number of stitches used can be roughly according to the following standards do:
1 / 10--1 / 17 for 12-pin (metric), 1 / 7--1 / 9 for 9-pin,
1/6 ----- 1/8 for 7-pin, 1/3 ----- 1/5 for 5-pin,
3 pin use 1 / 1.5 ---- 1/3,
For example: use 20/2 100% COTTON to knit a 5-needle shirt, use 5 wool, [20/2 = 1/17, 5X (1/17) = 1 / 3.4], the above is only the approximate range under general circumstances, such as It is not impossible to use 2/30 100% VISCOSE 1 wool knitting 5 needles for perspective effect, but it is impossible to use 3 21/2 100% COTTON knitting 12 needles.
Two different wool materials (different colors or ingredients), there are several different weaving methods when they are delivered to the loom piece through the yarn feeder:
a: Inserted (Plated), that is, the two kinds of wool are fed into the loom through the inner and outer mouth of the yarn feeder, so that one wool is on the side of the fabric and the other wool is on the bottom of the fabric.
b. Mixed (Mixed), that is, the two wools are input into the loom without distinction like two identical wools, and the two wools in the knitted material are randomly distributed on both sides.
c. Twisted, twist two kinds of wool material through the twisting machine before weaving loom to make it into a piece of wool, and then enter the loom knitting piece.
For sweaters woven out of two or more different wool components, the final composition of the sweater (FINAL CONTENT) needs to be calculated.If the sweater is woven with different components in different parts (such as a sweater It is woven with 2/30 100% VISCOSE, and the lower column is woven with 21/2 100% COTTON), then the final composition of the sweater can only be known by weighing the weight of each component through the weaving factory. But if all The shirt is woven through one of the above three methods, and it can be calculated by the following method.Whether it is inlay, mixed or mixed wool, the calculation method is the same:
1. If 2/30 100% VISCOSE embedded WL2070LYCRA [83D (1/109) 85% NYLON 15% NYLON 15% ELASTANE], the calculation method is:
Turn the two wools into the same unit (to metric count):
VISCOSE: 2/30; LYCRA: 83D = 1/109.
2. Calculate the thickness of the two wools after embedding (or mixing or spelling) (that is, the two wools are combined into one with a considerable length):
2/30 + 1/109 = (2 * 109 + 30) / (30 * 109) = 248/3270
3. Calculate the percentage of VISCOSE and LYCRA:
The number of VISCOSE is: 2/30 = 218/3270, which is equivalent to 218 shares of 3270 wool.
The count of LYCRA is: 1/109 = 30/3270, which is equivalent to 30 shares of 3270 wool.
The total count of the two wools is: 248/3270, which is equivalent to 248 strands of 3270 wool
In the above metric counts, the denominator (count) is the same, it is not difficult to see that the more the number of shares, the thicker the wool, the following calculation can be used to get the gross ratio
Example vISCOSE: 218/248 = 0.879 = 88%
LYCRA: 30/248 = 0.121 = 12%
4. And LYCRA contains 85% NYLON 15% ELASTANE, so the following calculations must be done:
NYLON: 12% * 0.85 = 0.102 = 10%
ELASTANE: 12% * 0.15 = 0.018 = 2%
5. Therefore, the final composition is: 88% VISCOSE 10% NYLON 2% ELASTANE (percentages cannot take decimal points)
Section 2 CUTTING.
Cutting bed is to cut the woven piece into the required shape according to the paper pattern.
Most of the motor pieces need to be cut, because most of the cloth pieces woven by the motor are square or scrim.The main parts that need to be cut include the clamping position, collar, sleeve bottom, shirt feet and sleeve top, etc. Most of the sweater cutting beds are cut by hand, because the sweater is more elastic and the shape is not uniform after weaving.
Only the pure color fabric woven from the cylinder can be cut with electricity. When weaving pieces with mobile phones, they rarely need to be cut, except for some special styles.
Section 3 Sewing
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